By PhysrumAugust 19, in Ultimaker Cura. Hi everyone. I've been printing increasingly complex models in the past few days and I came across a problem when using supports. There is no retraction between the towers thus causing lots of stringing. This is a problem for me as it tends to break small towers and pull them to one side due to the weight of the added plastic. The print head also tends to rub against previously printed supports during travel and caused print failures a couple of times.
The rest of my print is fine and I don't have any problem with stringing or anything on the object itself. Cura already has all these features. First of all if it's not retracting look at all the retraction settings.
Anyone have successful Octolapse settings?
There's one called something like "minimum extrusion before retraction" and "minimum travel before retraction". Setting those both to zero will greatly increase how many retractions you are getting - possible to the point where you get filament grinding but that's another issues.
Or in cura 2. Set that to Any more than 20 and you definitely will get grinding filament. Also in cura It creates even more stringing. Also there is an "avoid part distance" or something like that in cura 2. Hi, I do have retraction and Z hop settings activated.
The printer does it on the model itself without any problem. I do have most of the settings you talked configured to make the best quality prints.For some odd reason, I started getting a great deal of stringing on my prints with PLA. I performed a lot of tweaks, but nothing really seems to change the stringing.
Coolest Way To Watch 3D Printing: Lights, Camera, Octolapse!
Here are my current settings which could effect stringing: Layer Height. I know nothing about Gcode or Cura settings. Have always used Cura default. But, from what I have learned by experience The stringing is caused by. Changing these have most of the time fixed my stringing problems. Give yaself some credit man, you know more than u think if necessities drive you. Nothing will get u learning faster than a annoying bug will :.
Very interesting settings, which filament are you using looks pretty low to me? Should be Minimum travel can be more 1. Why its so low? You dont need coasting really. If you get print with this settings, its miracle. I'm using 3D Solutech filament. Like I said However, I've gone futher than that by doing more tweaking because I couldn't resolve the stringing based on the information provided by the articles.
I've tried coasting and no coasting I'm not saying any of the setting are correct I'm just taking information from sources and plugging it in to see if it solves the problem.
I've even gone back to factory setting in Cura because I never had this problem early on when I got my printer. Factory reset still resulted in the same stringing issue. So I know that leaving your filament out exposed to humidity which I live in a humid region will make it brittle. I'm wondering if that will also cause stringing as well.
I've never read anything related to that. Tbh i never had a filament with humidity problem and im living near sea but i know that PLA absorb humid like crazy, humid makes them fragile but i never heard stringing problem in that case its possible. If you have another roll just check it with it, im curious now too.We use optional third-party analytics cookies to understand how you use GitHub. Learn more. You can always update your selection by clicking Cookie Preferences at the bottom of the page.
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G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder. G1 X0. G1 Z2. M ; Wait for current moves to finish. G91 ; Set coordinates to relative. G90 ; Set coordinates to absolute. M84 ; Disable stepper motors.The Octolapse plugin provides a great way to take time lapse footage of your 3D prints. After each layer, it moves the extruder nozzle out of the way and snaps a picture.
The final result is a super smooth timelapse video without your nozzle getting in the way! The most common issue people have with Octolapse is stringing—when the extruder nozzle leaves a nice filament spaghetti dinner on your plate after moving out of the way for each picture.
This thread on reddit outlines some great tips for reducing and preventing Octolapse stringing entirely. This HeaterTimeout plugin does exactly what it sounds like.
Once a pre-set amount of time has passed, Octoprint will turn off the heat to both your printer bed and nozzle. This is useful for safety reasons and as a last step to prevent thermal runaway. You can choose how often the heaters are checked by adjusting the plugin settings. Open the settings menu using the wrench icon in the upper right section of the navigation bar. Scroll down to HeaterTimeout and select it to customize.
If you want to print something to show the world and have no time to waste, this is the plugin for you. WebcamStreamer lets you stream your print job in real time! You may have better luck with different streaming platforms. Be sure to experiment and test before your stream goes live.
The stream server settings can be easily adjusted in the plugin settings. Some cool ideas to get you started: Trigger notifications when printing jobs are complete Turn lights on and off when print jobs are complete Integrate various webhooks Set special events to initiate print jobs.
Can't wait to come home and print? Why wait?! With OctoPrint Anywhereyou can control your printer on the go from any supporting mobile device. Start jobs, stop them, or just check in to see how that 10 hour print is coming along.
Setup is easy and totally worth the effort. Since your printer connects directly to the OctoPrint Anywhere servers, this is a far more secure option than opening up a direct connection to your network. It let's you check on your prints remotely and even keep an eye out for failed prints. If it detects a failed print producing what looks like spaghetti made of filamentthe printer can be programmed to turn off or pause in response.
Visit our guide on how to set up The Spaghetti detective on your OctoPrint server.This is a hacky way to improve your time-lapse quality by using a DSLR camera.
The script then uses gphoto2 to capture a image from a camera, which is connected to the Raspberry Pi via USB. The final time lapse is rendered on a PC. To keep Octolapse happy, a normal webcam is connected too. A Raspberry Pi with Octoprint and Octolapse installed. A dummy webcam to keep Octolapse happy.
A DSLR camera. A big SD card for the Raspberry Pi. Install gphoto2 on the Raspberry Pi. You can try to take a test image:. Check if you can power your DSLR camera from an external supply. Long prints take a toll on your battery an it's quite tedious to wait for hours to change the battery and maby miss it. Also its hard to change the battery without moving the camera. Configure it like seen in the images. Download the trigger script. Modify the main. Install some libraries on the Raspberry Pi:.
You will need a normal webcam running the time-lapse while your DSLR is taking photos. Configure your Octolapse like when using a normal webcam. Go into the camera settings and increase the Snapshot Delay as necessary I used 2 seconds. Start the python script. To keep the script running when you are connected over ssh use nohup instead.
Start the print. Begin with a small test print to configure the Snapshot Delay of the camera. You want this to be as short as possible to reduce stringing artefacts in your print. Try to find some settings for your DSLR which take the shortest time to capture images manual focus. When the print is finished copy the images to your computer and render the time-lapse.
I use ffmpeg on Ubuntu to do this.Stringing or oozing, also known as "hairy prints", is the name given for when small strings of filament are left on a printed model.
This usually happens when the filament keeps flowing from the nozzle while the extruder is moving to another object. You can see this as a marginal line of filament left between the objects.
This can be solved by changing a couple of settings in PrusaSlicer and checking your hardware. If you print for a long time from a single type of filament, such as PET-G, the filament can create a thin layer in the nozzle.
This can cause stringing as the strands of the filament stick to the surface of the print.Octolapse Timelapse - 3D Prints without Stringing
Therefore, thoroughly clean the nozzle before printing and make sure that any dirt or remnants of previous filaments are removed from the nozzle. You should start by checking a parameter known as Retraction. What does retraction do? Once the extruder moves to the next location the printing process continues — the filament is pushed back out and it starts extruding from the nozzle again.
Use the correct value for retraction. Users often increase retraction to meaningless values, so check the PrusaSlicer settings and make sure that you have the retraction set to a maximum of 2 mm. You can get rid of the strings with a heat gun or often with a lighter — but be very careful.
This will melt the strings, and the printed object should remain undamaged. If you have a question about something that isn't covered here, check out our additional resources. And if that doesn't do the trick, you can send an inquiry through the button below. Relevant for: MK2. This article is also available in following languages:. We highly recommend using our official factory default preset settings in PrusaSlicer.
However, if you are printing with your own settings, make sure that you have the retraction settings configured correctly. Flexible filaments usually need longer retractions, because the material stretches while being pulled back to the nozzle. Flexible materials are a special case and can need a lot of tweaking and tuning.
Make sure you have "Wipe while retracting enabled". Comments This page needs to be edited. Also, it is not clear whether a user should change it for the whole printer or for a particular filament. Here you change the printer settings, so it's not specific for a particular filament. Are you sure you want to delete this item? This action can't be undone! Hi, you can do this via the Filament Overrides tab in the Filament Settings. The settings recommended in this article are indeed not for the MINI.
The default settings on the slicer are those tested by the developers, so unless you see any anomaly related to the retraction in your print, it's recommended to stick with 3.
Please sign in before adding a comment. Still have questions? Contact us.I've been trying to get Octolapse working successfully with my Mini but can't get the settings right. The nozzle keeps getting blocked after the first layer no matter what 'Stabilization' setting I use.
I don't understand what 'blocked nozzle' has to do with the camera? Do you mean blocking the camera view? For some reason when using Octolapse it messes with the retraction settings of the printer.
So what happens is about layers into the print, the printer will "jam" in reality it just stops extruding and just keeps moving around but not extruding. Success with Octolapse is very dependent on getting your settings to match your printer's retraction settings exactly.
Octolapse works by intercepting the gcode stream and injecting the gcode to position the camera to the appropriate positions and exactly back into position for the next print commands. If you don't have it set properly, it can contribute to stringing and any of the other problems commonly encountered when tuning retraction. There are a bunch of YouTube videos on the topic. I did a bad job of explaining my issue but that is exactly it. There are adjustable settings for the printer including retraction settings but I've copied exactly what is in PrusaSlicer as the Octolapse docs suggest but haven't had any luck yet.
Yep, something's up with Octolapse and the mini. I've got 3 other printers working with Octolapse 2 direct drive and 1 bowden. The setup was easy and they all work well.
However, the Mini seems to have a retraction issue with Octolapse. I've made sure all of the retraction settings mirror Prusaslicer exactly, but it still stops printing after the first layer or two. I have not tried it with FW 4. So when using OctoPrint i just dont use OctoLapse and it works fine. OK - thanks for the explanation. I occasionally use octolapse on my mk3, and I hadn't thought about it causing print issues, as for me, it 'just works'. I'm still waiting on delivery of my Mini.
I'll be sure to keep away from using it until it is sorted. Perhaps someone with a mini would be willing to create an issue on the Octolapse github? I have been wanting to create a profile for the Prusa Mini anyway, so this might be a good opportunity.
I'm not going to fix any problems in V0. I'll need a gcode file sample something small, like a calibration cube as well as any other information you can give me about the printer, like min and max XYZ coordinates. I'd be happy to provide whatever you need or run some tests for you.
I'll look into this right after work. I'm going to send you some info via github for upgrading to the latest pre-release of Octolapse, since I don't plan to add any regressions to the version you are using v0.
I'll also add a profile for the prusa mini to the profile repository so that it is available to all users. It would be possible to run a test of this via the OctoPrint terminal interface. It required me to install the 0. Let me know if you have any issues following the above steps. I've added a default profile for the mini that is currently available in 0.
I am hard at work on the next and hopefully last dev version dev5so hopefully these changes make it to the master soon. I've asked bradmcgonigle about this, but figured it's not a bad idea to ask here too.