I have spoken with some who say to replace the "light" with the gauge and others who have said you have to put something into the engine so as to measure temperature. When I looked at gauges, it indicated a sensor but didn't show anything to insert into the engine itself.
Thanks in advance. Quote 0 0 0. Thanks, Bob. That is the information that I am finding thus far except the info on the sump. I don't have one, yet. That's good to know. What part of the country are you? I'm in northern NM. I ask because of the relationship of temperature and oil viscosity. You have been a tremendous help this morning. Yes, I am planning to switch over to an alternator and I will definitely be moving that fuel filter. That's par for the course, it's all about the money.
I will be adding the magnetic plug to my to-do- before-installing-the-engine list.At one point or another, every vintage air-cooled Volkswagen enthusiast has encountered oil pressure issues with their spring and plunger set up.
With Audirac Racing's innovative oil pressure valve body, VW engine oil pressure is instantly stabilized! This wear eventually allows oil to flow around it, "an internal oil leak", causing low oil pressure issues that are common with vintage VWs. Our Oil Check Valve Kit includes a valve body that sits firmly in place.
The metal marble is what moves against the spring instead and completely seals up against the valve body. This allows oil to stay within the system until it reaches the ideal oil pressure lbs, 70lbs MAX which at this point allows oil to flow without compromising oil pressure output. On dual relief cases, installation involves only replacing the stock oil pressure relief valve on the pully side and leaving the oil pressure control valve on the flywheel side alone.
When we rebuild cases inhouse, we eliminate the oil pressure control valve on the flywheel side entirely and drill a new relief hole on the pully side. Adrian at Headflow Masters has installed this setup in all of his engines, new and old since he first opened his shop.
The funny thing is, it works so well that his clients don't return for years because their engines last sooo long! If your engine and its parts are in well working order, but you have oil pressure issues, there is a very high probability that this Kit will fix your problem immediately.
Other oil pressure booster kits are just a variation of the stock plunger We believe they simply just use stronger springs which does not fix the problem. If the crankshaft pully is loose when tugged on, the case most likely needs to be rebuilt. Thank you. Disclaimer: Headflow Masters is not part of and therefore not affiliated with Volkswagen of America.
Links or references to Volkswagen of America, any of its companies or subsidiaries should not and will not be made because Headflow Masters has no relationship with any of them.
In other words, we simply sell quality VW engine, interior and exterior parts as well as provide professional VW engine performance services for your favorite Volkswagen classic models. The staff here at Headflow Masters continuously attempts to provide you with the most accurate information found on this site, but mistakes may arise.
Therefore we will not be held responsible for errors of any kind; all content and images included. At times, the number of parts, services available, their descriptions and their prices may be inaccurate despite our best efforts. We will strive to correct these errors before or shortly after they emerge.
All product and service prices and availability are subject to change without notice or obligation. Santa Fe Ave. Unit A, Vista CA, :: cell Headflow Masters' Volksagen engine performance services include:. Downloadable Version.Talk to us!
Four required per car. For installing small hole oil cooler on large hole case, or doghouse cooler stand to small hole case. Note: 26 mm gears provide more moderate and desirable oil pressure than 30mm Aluminum housings and steel alloy gears make for superior performance.
The aluminum housing expands and contracts with heat fluctuations at the same rate as the engine case so the possibility of leakage is minimal.
It seals the tube to the engine breast plate. It keeps dust from getting into the oil. Includes a system of internal baffles that separate the oil from the air, then returns the oil back to the engine.
It mounts upright on the alternator stand making for easy oil filling. Designed to look like part of the engine. The Billet Aluminum filler cap seals with an O-ring. Aluminum construction offers great looks and leak-free operation featuring an O-ring seal and Button-head Allen topscrews. Vent your valve covers, crankcase or air cleaners.
Accepts all PH8A oil filters. Will not fit with 'Dog House Cooler. Filters Instructions Switches General. Oil Cooler Adapter Seal. In Cart! View Cart. Part : AR. Seal for Oil Cooler. Eary Style: 8 x 8 mm od. One unit 2 required per cooler. Part : Oil Cooler Conversion Seal Set 8mm to 10mm stepped od.
Part : C. Oil Pump, 26 mm gears 6mm stud holes For cam shafts with 3 rivets. Gaskets included. Part : HD. Part : AHD. Oil Pump, 30mm Gears. With Dish Cam Gears Designed to provide increased oil volume for stock and high performance engines. Part : BHD. Part : BK. Oil Pump, 26mm gears.Go under the Bug and then start checking the car.
Wipe everything down and then come back after a few minutes to see where the oil is dripping from. Another place where you can see drip is near the rear main seal under the car. If that happens, you need to get a circular seal. You need to take out your engine, the clutch, the pressure plate and the fly wheel and you replace the main seal.
What Type of Oil Goes in a 1971 Super Beetle?
It might be hard to do this at first, but you will need a 36mm heavy duty socket in order to remove the fly wheel. You will need a tool that keeps the fly wheel in place.
Pushrod tubes can also lead to a Beetle oil leak. They do sell kits that allow you to avoid removing the engine in order to replace the pushrod tubes, but the main idea is to do it the old fashioned way.
The oil cooler can also leak and you should also pull the engine in order to replace the cooler. The issue does appear when you overuse the engine. In order to remove the cooler you will have to remove a nut and then you will have to see if there are leaks or not. If it leaks, on the down side of the pushrod tubes you will see oil leaks. The valve cover gaskets might be leaking too, so you need to pull them down. Use an old rag, slip it in the hole and pull it, as that will help you pull the valve cover without a problem.
Usually, these are the area where you have to fix the VW Beetle oil leak. Remember to try and fix oil leak problems fast, as otherwise you will end up with quite a bit of issues in the long run.
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How to fix oil leaks and drips for a VW Beetle or Bug
Remember Me. Please enter your username or email address. You will receive a link to create a new password via email. Table of contents Spot the oil leaks Fix the oil leaks as soon as possible. Tags: restore vw beetlerestore vw bugvw beetlevw bug.
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August 18, October 3, May 4, August 6, August 10, Crankcase Ventilation. Rob wrote - There is an opening into the crankcase around the pulley shaft which is designed to pull in fresh unfiltered!
If you remove the engine pulley you'll see a couple of annular slots in the case around the shaft. The shaft itself has a spiral groove cut in it, so it "screws" air into the crankcase. This ensures that there is always a slight overpressure in the crankcase, which, combined with the slight vacuum in the carburetor induction system, pulls oil fumes etc.
You might hear the beach buggy boys talk about "sand seals" and these are plug-like devices which seal off these slots so you don't get dust and sand into the sump. There is a large washer around the shaft just behind these slots to act as an oil splash plate, and since the air is being drawn into the crankcase, it encourages the oil there to dribble back into the case and sump, rather than force it's way out. What is supposed to happen is that the crankcase pulls in a small amount of fresh air through the slots behind the crank pulley.
There is a spiral groove on the crankshaft which 'pumps' air in through there. This is deliberate, to create a positive pressure in the crankcase, which forces any burned gases leaking past the rings up through the breather and through the carby. This way the oil gets less contamination from the cylinder gases, and any excess foaming of oil etc.
But when you lift your foot -- close the throttle -- there's no low pressure to maintain air flow through the crankcase. If you've got a blow-by problem combustion gases getting past worn rings and valve guidesthe pressure inside the crankcase can be great enough to defeat the oil slinger, blowing a gust of oily vapor out the inlet where the pulley does a nice job of distributing it around the engine compartment. If you're not using the standard air cleaner, you may not be getting enough vacuum to suck the oil laden fumes up through the alternator stand, resulting in the mist blowing out backwards through the ventilation slots behind the crankshaft pulley.
Take a look -- any evidence of the oil streaking etc inside the cleaner would indicate that it's pulling the oily air through properly. You MUST have the tube from the oil filler connected to the air cleaner, and have an aircleaner which develops a slight vacuum inside the filter element. Many aftermarket air cleaners do not make any provision for fitting a vent line from the oil filler tower.
And those that do have a connection may not develop sufficent vacuum, causing oil to come out of the crankcase where air is supposed to be going in. Clean everything up real well to spot the source. Try this: At idle, remove the oil filler cap and hold it loosely over the opening. It should just flutter without really being blown away.
If blown away, there is excessive blow-by.
Rob responded - Three other possible sources of oil leakage into the engine compartment have been suggested -- the oil pressure switch, the dipstick, and the oil filler. The oil pressure switch should NOT have a gasket or O-ring. Wrapping string around under the dipstick cap may help. The oil filler cap must fit snugly. Dave took the problem of oil in the engine compartment to the RAMVA Newsgroup - A nagging question - What could be the source of oil on the engine tin around the rear of the engine?
We've replaced the oil pressure switch and the distributor shaft seal and tightened the oil filler cap -- oh, yes, and packed string around the inside of the dipstick collar. Bob Hoover wrote - You may have a blow-by problem. Outlet is via the dynamo tower to a low pressure area inside the air cleaner. If you've got a blow-by problem -- leaky rings or, more likely, worn valve guides -- the pressure inside the crankcase can be great enough to defeat the oil slinger, blowing a gust of oily vapor out the inlet where the pulley does a nice job of distributing it around the engine compartment.
Rob commented - I can see what Bob Hoover is saying, but I don't think it's your problem -- the engine is "fresh" and so worn valve guides or piston rings are not likely.Our Address.
Kings Mills, OH I have a beetle 1. When stopped 0lbs. This has ben like this for 6 mo. Any advice for other fixes to try? I would put a mechanical gauge on the engine and confirm these numbers via removing the oil pressure switch and screwing it in.
No only between 5 to 15 lbs. Comes on at 15psi on the way down goes off at 5psi. Comes on at 5psi on the way up and goes off at 15psi.
Just to get the most ideas in the shortest amount of time. Oil pressure that goes from 28 psi to 60 psi when coasting? An oil light that comes on at 15 psi and goes off at 5 psi? None of this makes sense. Okay, Got a response from a gent over at newbeetle. This is pretty much all they deal with, and they are also a great bunch of guys and girls. When it comes to the oil pressure; obviously, a pressure gauge hooked up to where the oil pressure sending unit port location; is the way to check the oil pressure.
From the description; that seems to be the case. Checking the cam bearings and cranks bearings, would sound like a good check as well. Here is a another thread; when we went through a number of trouble shooting steps with a member with low pressure problems. In this case; the member had a plastic windage tray MELT; cause the oil pressure to drop and clogged up the oil cooler, as well. Posting links to other forums is NP. If not, this could be the cause.
Outside of that, you may be looking at an issue with the engine. I know these cars have some really really weird methods for triggering the low oil pressure light-one odd sensor reading and it triggers both the oil light and the cooling light? The old rule of thumb used to be 10PSI oil pressure for every 1k rpm.
Always amaze me and confuse me at the same time. I can grab some specs out of the shop manual for the RPM and expected oil pressure range. These engines also require VW spec oil. It seems to be okay to use 5w30 or even a slightly heavier weight depending on your area and outside temps But it has to be full synthetic.
Dealer recommended is Castrol Edge synthetic, but Mobil 1 also meets the specs.Pressure relief valve \u0026 oil pressure relief valve removal
I have an excellent aftermarket manual guage installed, along with the sending unit for the factory light. I installed this with a tee fitting in case the missing sending unit messed with the computer. I have been a mechanic for 43 years and have never seen this type problem before. It has me stumped. My car has had 20W50 full syn.Much of that comes down to the simplicity of the air-cooled engine's design; but simplicity can be a double-edged sword when it comes to maintenance items like oil.
VW was very proud of its engine's anywhere-anytime reputation, and its popularity all over the world. Beetles were designed to be run through the snow on sawdust and moose urine; maybe that's why the VW owner's manual said of oil changes: "The VW engine makes no demands in respect of engine oil quality, which cannot be fulfilled by every well known and popular brand. Also not mentioned by VW is the fact that these engines, which lack an oil filter, require changes every 3, miles religiously.
From negative 4 degrees Fahrenheit to 77 degrees, a 10W or 10W will suffice. If you never drop below 0 degrees, you can use a 15W or 15W, and 20W or 20W will suffice if temps don't drop below 14 degrees Fahrenheit. These air-cooled engines tend to run hot, so don't use anything thinner than a multigrade. You can use an old single viscosity oil like an SAE 20, 30, 40 or 50, but it'll only narrow the oil's operational range.
The fact that the air-cooled engine lacks an oil filter really affects your engine oil choice. First, you'll need to use a "high detergent" oil that will keep sludge and soot suspended in the oil, and keep it from sticking to the inside of the engine. Some people prefer a heavy-duty diesel truck oil like Rotella T because it has very aggressive detergent packages that will keep the engine clean and happy, but a standard high-detergent automotive oil will suffice.
If you're switching from standard to high-detergent oil, mix it half-and-half on the first oil change; you don't want all the sludge dissolving and breaking loose on one oil change.
Don't bother with a synthetic. You have to change the oil every 3, miles to get rid of dissolved sludge, so the synthetic's ability to run 6, miles or more is wasted. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us.
Oil Type The fact that the air-cooled engine lacks an oil filter really affects your engine oil choice. References VW-Resource. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.